With winter plans finally coming to fruition, I embarked on my Hebridean tour- starting in the north at Lewis and heading south to Barra. The weather was significantly kinder than last year and I was gifted with clear days, sunshine, some stormy dramatic skies and gentle breezes. I have been to the Western Isles a number of times now and the desire to visit familiar places is always strong. However, on this trip I mixed in a couple of new spots that have previously been neglected.
For example, I have visited the Butt of Lewis so many times. I love exploring the nooks and crannies on the approach to the lighthouse and I absolutely love the wee beach on the way. However, I ventured beyond the lighthouse this time and looked back at it via plunging cliffs and incredible angles.
Butt of Lewis
There was a storm approaching, with the wind growing stronger. I battled with sketchbooks flapping about and paintbrushes blowing across the rocks and grass. I could have sat painting this scene for a very long time but the elements create an urgency that brings out new ways of working.
The geology astounds me. Lumps of Lewisian Gneiss, stacks rising out of the foamy froth and swirling salt air whipping round my face. It’s my happy place. I can’t describe the complete joy and wonder that fills me in these moments. The artwork is a token, a memento created at the time.
Another place that was rediscovered and felt completely new to me was Bosta. It’s been a while since I made the long winding drive out there but I’m glad I did. The fog had set in and the distant rocks that make this such a unique place were like spectres at sea. Resting on the horizon, these usually distinct stacks were softened and obscured by the mists that create a grey wash over everything. I was observed by a particularly handsome ram whilst I painted. I was fine with him at that distance but might have had to throw my mini cheddars at him if he took a step closer!
I could write all day about the wonders of Lewis, however that would mean neglecting the other incredible spots. Harris as many people know is utterly stunning. It was as close as the Hebrides got to the heatwave the news spoke of on the mainland. It was a toasty day heading down through Harris and we stopped for a brief cooling off at Luskentyre before getting the ferry to Berneray. Luskentyre was rammed. Absolutely chocca. The wee car park was like Tetris with cars and campervans tightly packed in together. We didn’t stop long here. As beautiful as this beach is, it felt like a whack to the head after all the space and peace of Lewis. Ellie had a splash about in the sea and we moved on.
Probably the only beach where she needed to wear her wee space vest.
The ferry away from the busyness of Harris was welcomed. I love Harris but it turns out so does everyone else! Putting another stretch of sea between us was no bad thing. To Berneray!! Perhaps a part II can pick up this part of the journey…..watch this space.